title: Hollick 1998 Wilgha Shiraz (Coonawarra)
description: It seems as if the emphasis is more on the oak than on the fruit. But the oak is darn tasty—toasty, vanillin and bringing all sorts of dried-spice complexities to the table. The wine is creamy and full enough to support the oak, even if the cherry-berry flavors do take a back seat. —J.C.
variety: Shiraz
designation: Wilgha